Coimbra
Overview
Coimbra was once the capital of an emerging and growing Portuguese Kingdom. It soon became the ancient centre of learning, poetry and sculpture that it is now.
Coimbra ceased to be the capital in 1255 because Lisbon took that role some time after the Kingdom of Portugal fought, defeated and dismissed the Arabs from their land as far as Lisbon in 1147.
Coimbra, the ancient city of learning is situated on the banks of the River Mondego with links to the sea not far away.
Coimbra was also the setting for the love affair between King Pedro I (The Just) and Inês de Castro who was killed in 1355. Their love is immortalised in the play Pedro and Inês.
In place of the hilltop palace of the first Portuguese monarchs, you will now find the fine buildings of the oldest university in Portugal, which is also one of the oldest universities in Europe.
The Renaissance and the final transfer of the university to Coimbra in 1537 breathed new artistic freedom into the city.
This intellectually inspired art form can be seen in the beautiful Manueline doorway of the University Chapel and the magnificent ancient door in the walls of the Old Cathedral.
Manueline art and architecture can be seen all over Portugal.
The later Baroque style also left its mark on the sumptuous Coimbra University Library. It was called “the most beautiful and richly decorated library that I ever saw” according to a 19th Century diplomat. On its gilded shelves are stored over 250,000 books.
From the top of its 178 steps, the old university clock tower still chimes out the hours. You must visit Coimbra for an unforgettable holiday experience.
When you visit Coimbra, imagine the march of time and the epic events of history, the establishment of the first Portuguese Kingdom under King Afonso I in the north of the country in the region of the Roman city of Oporto called Porto Callense, named after the City of Calle, now Gaia where the Port Wine caves are, opposite present day Oporto.
Porto Callense meaning the “Port of Calle” became the name for the country, and the word “porto” on its own became the name of the great city of Oporto, or “Porto” in Portuguese.
Think about the battles to wrest control of the country bit by bit from the Arabs or Moors who had been there since the early 700s.
Remember that the liberation of Lisbon was achieved in 1147.
Reflect on the eventual reconquest of all Portugal from the Arabs in The Algarve at Faro by 1272.
Although Lisbon became the capital in 1255, the kings continued to live in Coimbra during and after the 1300s.
The first Portuguese treaty of friendship – with England was made in 1308 and must have been contemplated in Coimbra and in 1386, the second friendship treaty with England was made and still remains valid today.
Throughout centuries, this has bound all people of Portuguese and British origin throughout the world and has ensured peace.
This is possibly the first forerunner to the modern treaties, which today include the European Union.
All of this fascinating history has made an impression on the city of Coimbra, on the country of Portugal, on its neighbours, on its good friends who have seldom quarrelled in over 720 years and on the whole world which has felt the largely benevolent influence of this small place with a big heart.
Geography
Halfway between Lisbon and Oporto, you will find the city of Coimbra. It is located in the centre of Portugal and the city is only 30 km from the sea.
Demography
Coimbra is the third largest Portuguese city, with 148,443 inhabitants.
Climate
Coimbra has a fairly mild climate, temperatures in Coimbra can go from 7 ºC in Winter, to 28 ºC in Summer.
Leisure
Old Coimbra sits majestically on a hill on the right bank of the River Mondego, with the university dominating its summit. The main buildings of the Old University date from the sixteenth century and are set around a courtyard dominated by a Baroque clock-tower and a statue of King João III, who looks remarkably like England’s Henry VIII.
Below the university, a good first stop for lovers of art is the Museu Machado de Castro, just down from the unprepossessing Sé Nova (The New Cathedral). The museum is named after an eighteenth-century sculptor and it is housed in the former archbishop's palace, which would be worth visiting in its own right - even if it were empty. As it is, you will find it positively stuffed with art, sculpture, paintings, furniture and ceramics.
The Sé Velha (The Old Cathedral) halfway down the hill is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Portugal. It is little altered and seemingly unbowed by the passing years. It is solid and square on the outside and it is largely unadorned and simple within. The decoration is confined to a few giant conch shells and some unobtrusive “azulejo” tiles. The Gothic tombs and low-arched cloisters are equally restrained.
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Restraint and simplicity are certainly not the chief qualities of the Igreja de Santa Cruz - the church at the bottom of the hill past the city gates. Although it was founded before the Old Cathedral, nothing remains that has not been substantially remodelled.
In the early sixteenth century, Coimbra was the site of a major sculptural school. The new tombs for Portugal's first kings, Afonso Henriques and his son Sancho I and the elaborately carved pulpit are among its very finest works.
The Manueline theme is at its clearest in the airy arches of the Cloister of Silence, where its walls are decorated with bas-relief scenes from the life of Christ. It was in Santa Cruz Church that Dom Pedro had his royal court pay homage to the corpse of Inês de Castro, which had lain in the now ruined Convento de Santa Clara-a-Velha across the river, alongside the convent's founder, Saint-Queen Isabel. The tombs have long since been moved away.
The tomb of Inês was moved to Alcobaça and Isabel's tomb to the Convento de Santa Clara-a-Nova, located higher up the hill. Two features make the climb worthwhile: the silver tomb itself and the vast cloister financed by João V, whose devotion to nuns went beyond the bounds of spiritual comfort.
Useful Data
Currency
The Euro €, but other currencies may be taken and will be exchanged in banks.
Language
Portuguese is the native language, but you will find that many people in Coimbra will speak English, especially the students, business people and the young.
Emergencies
You should dial: 112, the national emergency number for Ambulance, Fire and Police in the event of an emergency. This service is free of charge and your call can be answered in either English, Portuguese or French. Spanish is also understood.
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